Lullymore, a small yet historically significant civil parish in County Kildare, is nestled within the historical barony of Offaly East and is renowned for its unique geography as a “mineral island” surrounded by the vast Bog of Allen. This area, with its rich tapestry of history spanning millennia, offers a fascinating lens through which to examine its past, particularly the ownership of its lands during the 19th century by the Murphy family.
Lullymore is a raised fertile mineral island totally surrounded by the Bog of Allen. To its southwest lies the smaller but equally surrounded island of Lullybeg. It was a natural fortress, as access could only be gained by traversing the bog itself, and evidence of togher roads have been found. Yet it contained 809 fertile acres within Lullymore, which derives its name from the Irish Lílach Mór (meaning “a place with good grass” or “milch cow”).
St. Patrick and the Dawn of Christianity in Lullymore
During his Christian mission to Ireland in the 5th century, St. Patrick brought St. Erc to Lullymore and ordered him to found a monastary and school there. During the Penal Times Catholic Bishops sought sanctuary here during the penal times,
The arrival of Christianity in Ireland during the 5th century marked a transformative moment for Lullymore, with St. Patrick, the Apostle of Ireland, playing a pivotal role. According to tradition, St. Patrick visited Lullymore during his missionary work in Leinster, leaving an indelible mark on the area. A large boulder on the monastic site bears a footprint said to belong to St. Patrick, a tangible symbol of his presence that has captivated visitors for centuries. This relic, along with a baptismal font in the nearby graveyard, underscores Lullymore’s significance as a place of early Christian activity.
St. Patrick’s connection to Lullymore is most notably through his disciple, Erc, a figure of immense historical and spiritual importance. Erc, originally a pagan druid in the service of High King Laoghaire, was converted to Christianity by St. Patrick during a dramatic confrontation with the druids at the Hill of Slane in 433. Erc’s conversion was a significant coup for Patrick, as druids held considerable influence in pre-Christian Ireland. Recognizing Erc’s wisdom and authority, Patrick ordained him as his first bishop (Bishop of Lilcach, or Lullymore) and tasked him with founding a monastery and school in Lullymore.
Erc had been a Brehon (judge or legal expert) to Ard-Ri Laoghaire at Tara prior to his conversion to follow Patrick. A Brehon interpreted and mediated on the Brehon Law, Ireland’s legal system of ancient laws and customs. He became a member of Patrick’s council, and was described as Patrick’s chancellor and supreme judge in spiritual matters. Of Erc, Patrick composed this quatrain:
Bishop Erc
Everything he adjudged was good.
Everyone that passes a just judgement
Shall receive the blessing of Bishop Erc.
This reputation for fairness and sanctity enhanced Erc’s influence, making Lullymore a center of moral and intellectual authority. Patrick’s primary aim in establishing the church and school at Lullymore was to train Irish clergy in piety and learning. The monastic establishment at Lullymore was possibly the largest in Ireland at the time.
The monastery at Lullymore flourished for over a thousand years, surviving Viking raids and the upheavals of medieval Ireland. Its longevity is a testament to its importance, serving as a place of worship, education, and refuge. The site, still visible in the graveyard at Lullymore, includes remnants of the monastic settlement, such as the baptismal font and stones incorporated into later memorials. Erc’s legacy extended beyond Lullymore; he is also associated with Slane, where he founded another monastery, and with missionary work in Munster and Kerry, where he tutored St. Brendan the Navigator.
Lullymore as a Sanctuary in Penal Times
The Penal Laws were enacted in 1695 at the conclusion of the Williamite wars, when the english parliament broke the Treaty of Limerick enshrining religious toleration and enacted the most repressive laws in history. Given the significance presence of religious monasteries and schools in Lullymore, it is worth recording here the restrictions imposed on Catholics by the Penal Laws:
- Catholics were barred from all political activity, including voting. They could not be admitted to the bar, nor sit on a jury.
- A Catholic could not possess arms, join the army or be an officer in the army.
- In terms of property, no Catholic could be granted a lease longer than 31 years.
- A Catholic landowner was obliged to divide his lands equally amongst his sons, so as to make Catholic landholdings too small to be viable in time. But if his eldest son converted to Protestantism, he could inherit everything. A son converting to Protestantism could dispossess his father while he was still alive.
- It was illegal to teach the Catholic religion. Catholics were not allowed to teach, and Catholic children were not permitted to be sent abroad for their education.
- Catholic Bishops were exiled, and Priests had to be registered and their replacement forbidden “under pain of death.” Anyone aiding the clergy could be “detained at the King’s pleasure.”
- Catholics who inherited property could by ousted by their nearest Protestant heir. A Protestant was entitled to buy any good horse owned by a Catholic by tendering £5;
- Catholics could not act as a guardian, wards of court all had to be raised as Protestants, mixed marriages were forbidden, and any children would be forcibly raised as Protestants.
It is against the backdrop of these repressive laws that one can imagine how Lullymore’s isolation continued to serve it well during the penal laws of the 17th and 18th centuries. The bog provided a natural barrier, making Lullymore a safe haven for priests and religious communities. The monastic settlement, though diminished, remained a focal point for worship, with its graveyard serving as a reminder of its sacred past. This period of hardship forged a resilient community spirit in Lullymore, a quality that persists in the area today.
According to a parliamentary report of November 27th 1731, “in the parish of Kilmaogue [Kilmeage] there is a Mass-house built since the first year of King George I (1714-1727) an officiating popish priest in the Wood of Allen in the said parish, and a friary of three or four friars.” The priest in question was Bishop Bernard Dunne (1724-1733).
Another Bishop of Kildare and Leighlin, Bishop Gallagher, also resided in the Bog of Allen, according to Dr. Doyle in 1823. A bound manuscript manual of theology preserved at Carlow College is inscribed: “Found in the Bog of Allen and presented to me, Rev. Dr. McGhee, 1853”.
Dr. Keeffe was another Penal Bishop who frequently sojourned to Kildare. Up until 1760, the exiled Stuarts had claimed the right to nominate Irish Bishops, and Dr. Keeffe was one of their nominations. It was under Dr. Keeffe, that a new policy, directed by the Holy See, of cooperation with the English government was adopted that was directly responsible for the first repeal of some Penal Laws in 1779.
St. Patrick’s College, Carlow
Dr. Keeffe became a pioneer in Catholic education and founded St. Patrick’s College, Carlow in 1782, though its doors to students were not opened until 1793, because the local Protestant Bishop had objected. It is this college that continues the education tradition first established in Lullymore by Patrick and Erc.
Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park: A Modern Legacy
Today, Lullymore is best known as the site of Lullymore Heritage and Discovery Park, a 60-acre attraction that brings its history to life for thousands of visitors annually. Opened in 1993 by President Mary Robinson, the park was the vision of Sean Judge, who sought to boost local employment and tourism following job losses in the peat industry. Managed by Ray Stapleton, the park has become a leading destination, blending education, history, and family-friendly activities.
The park offers a journey through 9,000 years of history, from Mesolithic settlers to the Great Famine, with exhibitions on St. Patrick, Erc, and the 1798 Rebellion. The Early Christian Centre tells the story of Erc’s monastery, while the Biodiversity Boardwalk explores the Bog of Allen’s ecological significance. Visitors can explore a Neolithic farmstead, ride a road train, or enjoy the pet farm, which features “Toggles the movie star goat.” The park’s international appeal, with 10% of its 50,000 annual visitors coming from overseas, highlights Lullymore’s global resonance.
The park also emphasizes environmental education, showcasing the bog’s role in Irish culture and its biodiversity. The first-of-its-kind Biodiversity Boardwalk allows visitors to walk through peatlands of birch, heather, and bog cotton, learning about conservation efforts. This focus on sustainability reflects Lullymore’s adaptation to modern challenges while honoring its ancient roots.
The park also emphasizes environmental education, showcasing the bog’s role in Irish culture and its biodiversity. The first-of-its-kind Biodiversity Boardwalk allows visitors to walk through peatlands of birch, heather, and bog cotton, learning about conservation efforts. This focus on sustainability reflects Lullymore’s adaptation to modern challenges while honoring its ancient roots.
Cultural and Community Significance
Lullymore’s community spirit, forged through centuries of hardship, remains a defining characteristic. Ray Stapleton describes the locals as “grounded, down-to-earth, decent, and great craic,” attributing their resilience to the struggles of previous generations. This sense of unity is evident in events like the 1978 Doorly memorial unveiling, which drew large crowds despite torrential rain. The park continues to foster this spirit, hosting events at Easter, Halloween, and Christmas that bring families and communities together.
The area’s cultural significance is also tied to its patron saints, St. Erc and St. Brigid, who are venerated in the Diocese of Kildare and Leighlin. Brigid, who traveled with Erc to Munster around 484, is a central figure in Kildare’s spiritual heritage, and her relics’ return to Kildare Town in 2024 underscores the region’s enduring religious importance.